March 02, 2009

The Real Intentions and Aftermath of Israel’s Invasion of Gaza



I wrote this gem for my Arab-Israeli Relations class with Professor Alexander Bligh. A lot of it comes from the independent research I did in Israel and the Palestinian West Bank over winter break during Israel's war with Hamas. Enjoy.

Who will save Israel from itself?

The Israeli Defense Forces’ Operation Cast Lead in the Gaza Strip, beginning on December 27, 2008, was justified in the context of Israel’s right to self-defense as a sovereign nation against indiscriminate rocket attacks from Palestinian militants; or so the simple widespread perception goes. The actual reality, however, suggests Israel had other objectives than commonly assumed. Further examination not only proves the Israeli claim to be a distorted view of the conflict but that it is much more complex and complicated than portrayed in the mainstream media’s coverage. If Israel’s only goal was to cease the rocket attacks coming from the Gaza Strip to provide immediate security for Israeli citizens, it would have adhered better to the June 19 ceasefire and worked before its expiration to negotiate a long-term ceasefire with Hamas. Israel’s invasion of Gaza was not a justified war of self-defense or even of necessity but it was clearly a war of choice and of opportunity. The broader reasons why Israel invaded Gaza can be attributed to other factors that are not related at all to security but more relevant to the political context at the time including the IDF’s diminished deterrence capability, the upcoming Israeli elections, the marginalized Palestinian President Abbas and Palestinian Authority, and the transition period of the US administration. Furthermore, Israel’s invasion of Gaza has thoroughly undermined Israeli and US national interests and ultimately failed to provide a long-term improvement in Israel’s overall security situation in the region.

Israel and Hamas signed a six-month ceasefire on June 19, 2008 in which Hamas agreed to end rocket attacks against Israel in exchange for Israel ending its siege on Gaza by fully opening all border crossings. The ceasefire expired on December 19 and Israel launched Operation Cast Lead against Hamas in Gaza on December 27. Israel and Hamas contend that the other had not fully respected the ceasefire and routinely violated it. In mainstream Western media, the Israeli and US narrative claim that Hamas, as a terrorist organization, was the main violator of the ceasefire and Israel was merely exercising its natural right to self-defense against rocket attacks coming from the Gaza Strip because Hamas refused to negotiate an extension of the ceasefire. This may be the widespread and accepted belief but it simply is not true. The ceasefire began in June 2008 and both sides had agreed to cease all military operations against the other. Hamas was required to cease any rockets being fired into Israel (whether from Hamas or other Palestinian factions), and Israel had to lift its blockade of Gaza. According to Israel’s Intelligence and Terrorism Information Center (ITIC), despite Israel's failure to fully lift its closing of Gaza’s border crossings the June 19 agreement actually resulted in Hamas significantly decreasing the rockets fired into Israel from hundreds in the weeks before the June 19 ceasefire to a total of less than twenty between June 19 and November 4 and only two the last two months of September and October. Israeli Defense Minister Barak and the ITIC were surprised with Hamas’ adherence to the ceasefire terms and its effective policies of cracking down on anyone firing rockets at Israel. But the significant event that first broke the ceasefire was on November 4 when the IDF conducted a raid into Gaza which resulted in the deaths of six Hamas members. Hamas and other Palestinian groups, whom the ITIC maintains were “careful to maintain the ceasefire,” fired rockets into Israel as retaliation to Israel’s violation of the ceasefire. The ITIC’s December 31 report confirmed that the June 19 truce was only "sporadically violated, and then not by Hamas but instead by ... ‘rogue terrorist organisations’" that were opposed to Hamas and whose interests included undermining the Hamas government by violating its ceasefire with Israel. Instead, "the escalation and erosion of the lull arrangement" only occurred after Israel provocatively killed six Hamas members on November 4 and then followed up with a further provocation on November 5 when Israel completely closed all of Gaza’s border crossings, even to critical aid shipments, that only intensified Israel’s siege and threatened a dangerous escalation of the humanitarian crisis in Gaza. Despite the ceasefire being effective for only the Israelis, after the ceasefire expired on December 19, Hamas offered a renewed ceasefire to Israel on December 21, but only on condition that Israel actually ended its blockade this time in accordance with international law which prohibits collective punishment of a civilian population and defines any kind of blockade as an act of war. The June 19 ceasefire with Hamas was actually working quite well from Israel’s perspective until the IDF’s incursion into Gaza on November 4. Israel refused to renew the ceasefire because its intentions of Operation Cast Lead were simply not limited to mere rockets. By actually adhering to the June 19 ceasefire by lifting the blockade or renewing a ceasefire with Hamas in December, Israel would have guaranteed security for its citizens but it didn’t even try to negotiate with Hamas which could have at least mostly erased the rocket threat for another six months. In rejecting Hamas’ offer and never fully opening Gaza’s border crossings, Israel was placing its wider political interests as more important than the threat of Hamas rockets and therefore over the very safety and lives of Israel’s citizens. The Israelis only opened partially the border crossings with Gaza, and in late July Foreign Minister Livni declared that Gaza’s border crossings would never be fully opened unless Hamas released captured IDF Corporal Gilad Shalit, even though the original ceasefire clearly was not conditional to Corporal Shalit’s release. In an interview in Ha’aretz on December 22, IDF Brigadier General Shmuel Zakai, former commander of the IDF’s Gaza Division, severely criticized Israel’s violations of the ceasefire and for failing to see the potential strategic costs of its policies:

“[Israel failed] to take advantage of the calm to improve, rather than markedly worsen, the economic plight of the Palestinians of the Strip… When you create a tahdiyeh, and the economic pressure on the Strip continues, it is obvious that Hamas will try to reach an improved tahdiyeh, and that their way to achieve this is resumed Qassam fire… You cannot just land blows, leave the Palestinians in Gaza in the economic distress they’re in, and expect that Hamas will just sit around and do nothing.”

Instead, Israel not only sought to deter all future rocket attacks against Israel but to negotiate another ceasefire but this time with Israel possessing better negotiating leverage to achieve a ceasefire that is in Israel’s overall favor. Israel’s brutal 18-month blockade failed to achieve that goal so Israel took the opportunity to use its superior military to inflict massive, overwhelming damage against Hamas in order to corner it until it would agree to a ceasefire with conditions more favorable to Israel than the June 19 ceasefire, specifically the immediate release of Corporal Shalit. There were clearly alternatives to a military approach that were not exhausted enough or even attempted and more importantly, no ceasefire in Gaza will ever last or become effective unless both sides fully adhere to it, especially unless Israel completely lifts its siege. After the failed ceasefire expired on December 19, the IDF started its massive bombing campaign of Hamas civilian and military targets in Gaza on December 27. The Israelis rejected Hamas’ offer for a renewed ceasefire because its broader political interests went beyond its security against rocket attacks fired from Gaza.

First of all, the Israeli leadership was divided over the ceasefire even during its initial negotiating period, and Defense Minister Barak instructed the IDF to begin preparing for a war with Hamas while the ceasefire was being negotiated in June 2008. Many senior Israeli political and military leaders strongly opposed the June 19 ceasefire with Hamas, and looked for opportunities to reestablish Israel's legendary deterrent capability of using such overwhelming, massive force against its enemies that they would be discouraged to ever attack Israel. The legend of Israel’s invincible army and its longtime deterrent power against its enemies was shattered in 2000 and further disproved in 2006, both times against Hezbollah, as well as a result of Israel’s 2005 unilateral withdrawal from the Gaza Strip. Stephen Walt points out that “its ability to use force to achieve larger strategic objectives has declined significantly over time.” And because of this Israelis have always emphasized in recent years the importance of restoring the IDF’s deterrence capability because although the IDF is the best military force in the Middle East and will undoubtedly win battles and achieve tactical successes, this does not necessarily lead to long-term improvements in Israel’s overall regional security situation. But to dissenters of the June 19 ceasefire, the ceasefire was at least a chance to prepare for a war with Hamas, especially when political conditions were more favorable.

Hamas cannot be destroyed and senior Israeli leaders know this. Hamas cannot be destroyed because it is simply too entrenched in Gaza. Trying to engage Hamas on a military level has proved to be a failure as its armed resistance against Israel only serves to bolster Hamas’ mass popularity and makes the PLO appear weak and unproductive with its negotiations with Israel. Hamas is not a small isolated group but a sociopolitical movement entrenched in Palestinian society with a broad social and political appeal among Palestinians. Israel’s most realistic option to stop rocket fire from Gaza is to actually act upon an agreed ceasefire in which it opens Gaza’s borders and stops arresting and killing Palestinians without provocation. The IDF impressively achieved many tactical successes and it performed better in Gaza than it did in Lebanon, largely because Hamas is a less formidable foe than Hezbollah. But this does not matter because the war against Hamas is still a strategic failure. And to have tarnished Israel’s international image and inflicted another brutal, unforgiving war on the Palestinian population for no real lasting strategic gain is especially reprehensible. And unless Israel negotiates and implements a durable ceasefire, Israel will fail to stop the rocket fire, and therefore its once hard-earned deterrent will be diminished, not strengthened. In Operation Cast Lead, Israel's superior military power was used in a way that did not at all improve its long-term strategic position in the region.

A second factor in Israel’s decision to attack Hamas was mounting pressure from the upcoming Israeli national elections set to take place on February 10. As Foreign Minister Livni, Defense Minister Barak, and the resurgent Likud Party’s Netanyahu vied for the Israeli Premiership, the Israeli cabinet approved a war against Hamas in Gaza. The triumvirate that would oversee the war—Olmert, Livni, and Barak—had been constantly criticized by increasingly popular hawkish Netanyahu “for not being tough enough on Hamas and rocket-fire from Gaza.” This pressured the triumvirate coalition of Labor and Kadima to take a more aggressive approach to Hamas in order to satisfy Israeli voters at the expense of right-wing Likud. Since Livni and Barak were best known for their ongoing but fruitless peace negotiations with the Palestinians, both had the opportunity to gain favor with Israelis by leading Israel in a successful war with Hamas. Both aimed to convince Israeli voters that they could lead the country and do what was necessary in times of crisis, especially for Livni since she is a woman and never served in the IDF unlike Barak. "If anything, she's been identified with the negotiations with the Palestinians," said one senior Israeli official who spoke on the condition of anonymity. "But at some point, her advisers started telling her she needed to turn to the right." Former Prime Minister Olmert and his Kadima Party’s reputation suffered significant political clout after 2006’s heavily criticized and failed invasion of Lebanon, as well as Olmert’s corruption charges. Operation Cast Lead, however, was Olmert’s chance to leave the Israeli Premiership on a high note with a successful war against Hamas. He, too, had been repositioning himself towards the right because “although he had initially hoped to revive his sullied reputation through a peace deal with the Palestinian Authority, he now appears to be banking on a successful operation in Gaza to help erase the stain of the Lebanon war, which was considered a debacle by many Israelis.” Netanyahu had always pushed for a more aggressive policy against Hamas in Gaza and was “well positioned to capitalize on Israeli anxiety if the rockets continue to fly.” When Hamas retaliated against Israel with its rocket fire in November and after the six-month truce expired in failure, the upcoming February 10 elections pressured Livni and Barak to immediately resort to using military force. During a research trip throughout the Occupied West Bank, many Palestinians repeatedly portrayed to this author a widespread belief that internal Israeli politics had some responsibility for the war against Hamas. They say that “whenever Israelis prepare to vote… Palestinians suffer from Israeli shows of strength” because “traditionally in Israel, violence during election campaigns has favored the more hawkish candidate.” Likud’s Netanyahu won the Premiership in 1996 against a backdrop of a campaign of Hamas suicide attacks inside Israel and an IDF offensive against Hezbollah in Lebanon. Likud’s Sharon won in both 2001 and 2003 during the Second Intifada. More recently, Netanyahu is currently the Prime Minister-designate and was chosen by President Peres to form the new government.

Third, before Israel’s war against Hamas started “the likely date for expected fireworks in the region was January 9, the day Hamas had long argued that Mr Abbas's term ended, and on which they vowed they would stop recognizing him as PA president.” Hamas repeatedly stated that it wouldn't recognize Mahmoud Abbas as president of the Palestinian Authority after his term expired on January 9. But with Israel’s war against it in Gaza, Hamas said that although it no longer recognizes Abbas as president, they have said the appropriate time to deal with the political issue was not now. By going to war against Hamas at that exact time, Israel gave itself the “opportunity to decide whether Abbas will lose his legitimacy before some of his nation, or will secure continued Fatah rule in the West Bank.” The Palestinian political situation threatens to boost Hamas and undermine Abbas, who maintains security coordination with Israel and is viewed by Israel as more willing to compromise and make concessions in negotiations over a peace deal with Israel. Because of Israel’s offensive in Gaza, however, “Abbas will remain in power for a while longer, since Hamas will be unable to mobilize its supporters in order to force him to resign.” Moreover, Israel hoped that with the threat from Gaza ended the pressure will grow on the Abbas and the Palestinian Authority to concede more on the much disputed issues of borders and control of Jerusalem. At a January 2009 meeting with this author at the Palestinian Authority Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Ramallah, Deputy Foreign Minister Ahmed Subuh, expressed his view that Israel's offensive in Gaza is more than an act of self-defense against years of Hamas rocket fire into southern Israel. He sees it as a tactical move against continuing the Israeli-Palestinian peace talks over the most divisive issues of borders, Palestinian refugees and control of Jerusalem. At a January 2009 meeting with this author at the home of Ahmed Qurei, the Chief Palestinian Negotiator and former Palestinian Prime Minister, in Abu Dis in East Jerusalem, he explained that by fomenting a disunity among Palestinian nationalism, Israel can claim that there is no reliable Palestinian partner with whom to negotiate a peace agreement and can delay the peace process by further pursuing changing facts on the ground. Israel's war against Hamas has actually undermined Palestinian support for Abbas and the ongoing peace talks. At a January 2009 meeting with this author at the Palestinian Authority Headquarters in Ramallah, Dr. Rafiq Husseini, the Chief of Staff to President Abbas, explains that the “Palestinian people think they can get more in 3 years of armed resistance than 10 years of negotiations. The Gaza war only strengthens Hamas more." Hamas has further surged in popularity at the expense of marginalizing President Abbas. Most of the emotional crowd at a Ramallah protest described to this author that the "massacre" in Gaza has invoked sympathy and support for Hamas’ resistance in Gaza. Israel’s war against Hamas has made the Palestinian Authority’s image and its control of the West Bank more ineffective than it already is, and support for its peace talks with Israel seems weaker than ever.

Finally, Israel decided to take action now as opposed to last summer or earlier in the fall as a result of the period of transition in the US administration because “the Bush administration rarely exerted constraint on Israel and would certainly stand by in its waning days, while Barack Obama [refused to offer his comments on the Gaza operation and] would not likely want to begin his presidency with a major confrontation with Israel.” In the The Washington Post, a Bush administration official explained that Israel went to war against Hamas precisely now "because they want it to be over before the next administration comes in. They can't predict how the next administration will handle it. And this is not the way they want to start with the new administration." Israel took this opportunity during the winter holidays and during the US political transition because it was the longest possible timeframe to go to war against Hamas with the least amount of pressure from the international community for an immediate ceasefire. Indeed, Israel's most provocative action and the critical turning point that undermined and broke the ceasefire was on November 4 when the international community was focused instead on the US elections and the IDF entered Gaza and killed six members of Hamas.

In a January 9 report for the Center for Strategic and International Studies, Anthony Cordesman put forth his argument that although Israel could secure several short-term tactical goals of invading Gaza, these would be far outweighed by the strategic risks and costs to its overall security position. He asks:

“Has Israel somehow blundered into a steadily escalating war without a clear strategic goal, or at least one it can credibly achieve? Will Israel end in empowering an enemy in political terms that it defeated in tactical terms? Will Israel’s actions seriously damage the US position in the region, any hope of peace, as well as moderate Arab regimes and voices in the process? To be blunt, the answer so far seems to be yes.”

Israel cannot destroy Hamas and even if it was able to, neither Israel nor the US and its Arab allies can afford the regional strategic cost. If Israel wants to guarantee a cessation of rocket fire from Gaza it must respect international law and end its siege of Gaza. Similar to Hezbollah in 2006, Hamas’ minimum conditions for victory require it to just survive a war with Israel. Therefore, the long-term, political and strategic outcomes of the recent invasions of Lebanon and Gaza were severely counterproductive for Israel and US interests in the region, since they primarily resulted in garnering more popular support for Hezbollah and Hamas. Israel’s long-term overall security situation is more at risk the less influence the US and its Arab allies have in the ongoing struggle for the Middle East against the Iran-Syria-Hezbollah-Hamas Axis. Israel’s war in Gaza has exemplified its politically poor overall security position and it remains out of reach for the time being of any kind of secure political existence because it has failed to gain acceptance from its Arab neighbors. The only real guarantee of Israel’s long-term survival is not in its vastly superior military but in becoming a recognized part of the regional state system and economy by negotiating diplomatic recognition from the Arab nations and achieving a lasting acceptance as a part of the Middle Eastern political system. No matter what happened on the battlefield, like the ill-fated 2006 invasion of Lebanon, Israel’s invasion of Gaza was doomed from the beginning because it is Israel’s Iron Wall strategy that poses the real dangerous risk to Israel’s overall long-term security position in the Middle East.

January 05, 2009

Israel/Palestine, the West Bank, the Golan Heights

"What perfect timing to do research here on the Israeli-Palestinian conflict than during another war," said the Israeli passport official when I arrived at the Tel Aviv airport on the night of January 2. I planned on this whole 3 week research trip ever since I left the Holy Land last August and for a region continuously in conflict, I wasn't really too surprised with Gaza flaring up again. It happens. Israeli elections are next month. The US is under a transition period. Gaza was illegally under siege by Israel for 18 months. Both sides violated the last ceasefire. So Israel and Hamas are back at war with each other. Israel invades Gaza on my first day here. Go figure.

At least I was able to get away from the biased US media coverage of the war that I was stuck with at home in DC, which was a real relief. I still want to throw my shoe at Israeli spokesman Mark Regev every time I see him on TV on a blatant Israeli PR campaign. He and all of US media conveniently leave out any facts critical of Israel or its actions in the last 18 months. Seriously, anyone with a memory span longer than 18 months (or even 6) should know that Israel and its policies share as much or more of the blame and responsibility as Hamas for the current war. "War is a defeat for humanity" (Pope JPII) and the diplomatic and policy failures of Israeli, Hamas, and Palestinian Authority leaders are what brought this current war upon the Israeli and Palestinian people.

On the ground here, it's all the usual. Palestinians are pissed off. 42 years of illegal military occupation and martial law does that. Israelis are indifferent. It's all typical Israeli politics before elections. The usual. If anything, the current Gaza war just pushed back a few years any hope for serious peace negotiations. The Syrians and even the moderate Palestinian Authority already suspended their peace talks with Israel. The US's blind support for Israel only makes matters worse. Good luck Obama. Welcome to DC.

I'm writing my senior thesis on the Arab-Israeli conflict and my own personal proposal for a permanent peace in the region, not just with Palestinians but taking into account the Iran-Syria-Hezbollah-Hamas axis. And of course, any serious work requires comprehensive research encompassing every perspective available and that's what brings me back here and what will bring me back to Lebanon and Syria this summer. For the record, I wouldn't consider myself either pro-Israeli or pro-Palestinian. My Arabic professor described me more as pro-peace and I guess I'll just settle for that. Peace for the Palestinians requires justice. Peace for the Israelis requires security. Both sides have the right to justice and security and to deny them these two basic rights, among other things, will only serve to perpetuate the violence that has beset both Palestinians and Israelis. Last time I was here in August for two weeks as an aid worker volunteer at a Palestinian Refugee Camp in the West Bank (just outside Bethlehem) so I mostly only got the Palestinian perspective from a refugee point of view, who are mostly just really pissed off (and rightfully so). And the only Israelis I met here last time were human rights activists and soldiers opposing the ongoing occupation. Anyway, here's my schedule and list of most important meetings:

1/2:
Arrival in Tel Aviv.

1/3:
Dead Sea and South Israel. Noticed about half a dozen Israeli F-16 jets flying south towards Gaza. No rockets from Hamas though.

1/3 - 1/10:
Staying in Jerusalem.

1/5:
Meetings with the Palestinian Authority in Ramallah, the West Bank.
- Ahmed Qurei, Chief Palestinian Negotiator since 1993 Oslo Accords and former Prime Minister under Yasser Arafat
- Ahmed Subuh, Deputy Foreign Minister (was originally supposed to meet with Riad Malki the Foreign Minister but he had to go to the UN to settle the Gaza crisis)
- Rafiq Husseini, Chief of Staff to President Abbas
- Muzna Shihabi, Negotiations Department of the PLO (Palestine Liberation Organization)
- Mustafa Bargouthi, Opposition Member of Parliament.
- Hamas official (canceled)

Visit Qalandia Refugee Camp outside Ramallah.
- Another Palestinian today asked me again if I was either Chinese or Japanese. As usual I reply I'm Filipino and then he asks me what the Philippines is. I guess Asians don't go to Palestine too much these days.

Also ended up in the middle of a Palestinian protest in downtown Ramallah against Israel. Then got back to the hotel room and saw footage of it on CNN.

Discussion on the war in Gaza of course took up most of the meetings. Also went over the current peace process with Israel, internal Palestinian politics, relations with Hamas, the new US administration, the role of Arab states, Israeli elections, etc.

1/6 - 1/7:
Meetings with Israeli officials at the Israeli Ministry of Foreign Affairs.

Tour of Jewish settlements in the West Bank.

1/8:
Visit to Israeli Parliament (the Knesset).

1/10:
Meeting with Governor of Bethlehem.

1/11 - 1/12:
South Israel.

1/13:
Tel Aviv and Jaffa.

Meeting with Gideon Levy, journalist for Ha'aretz (Israeli newspaper)

1/14:
Meeting with Oslo negotiator Ron Pundak.

1/15:
Meeting with Mayor of Nazareth, Ramiz Jaraisy.

1/16:
Meeting with the United Nations peacekeepers in the demilitarized zone of the Golan Heights (United Nations Observer Disengagement Force) at Camp Ziouani.

Meeting with the Israeli Army on the Israel-Lebanon/Hezbollah border.

1/18:
Tel Aviv to NYC to DC to Detroit to Chicago to Notre Dame.

I almost was going to stay in DC for the inauguration on 1/20 but I figured I already missed the first week of class. Maybe I'll catch the next one.

December 04, 2008

México

I am so glad I went to Mexico instead of the ND-Syracuse game.

October 20, 2008

Colombia

Pre-Departure:
I had been unsure of what to do for Fall Break. NYC, Canada, or both were the leading candidates. Aldrich and David expressed interest in going but when we met at Lafortune on Friday, October 17 to buy bus tickets, the plan started to fizzle out. Around 1am, I looked at a map of the world and randomly proposed Colombia. There wasn't too much interest at first but when we compared ticket prices to other random spots (Peru, Mexico, Germany, Canada), Colombia won out in the end as being both cheap and obscure/interesting. The State Department has a travel warning issued for Colombia, urging all Americans to avoid traveling in the country but that didn't really bother us too much. Well, it may have bothered some of us (or one) but we ended up going anyway so it didn't matter. It may have helped that I've been to 7 countries with travel warnings in the last 7 months and I ended up still alive. So after proposing the idea at 1am, we had our tickets purchased by 3am. We were going to fly out of Chicago on Saturday, October 18 at 5pm.

Day 1: We had a 5 hour layover in Houston on Saturday night but our plan to visit the city failed. I've been to Texas 5 times since January and with probably somewhere over 24 hours of layovers total, I've still never left the airport. Oh well. We got into Bogota, the capital of Colombia, at 5am and after arriving at the hostel in central Bogota, we passed out on the hard beds for 5 hours. We only wanted to sleep 2 hours but the flight and lack of sleep on the plane left us exhausted. Around 11am, we got up and had breakfast in the kitchen (pieces of toast and eggs) and then proceeded to exploring Bogota. Located 8500 feet in the Andes mountains and with a population of 8 million, Bogota is probably one of the most interesting capitals of Latin America. The old city is mostly comprised of colonial-style architecture, with one-lane streets, soldiers armed with assault rifles on every block, a main square, and many old Spanish churches. It reminds me a lot of Quito in Ecuador. The Andes mountains surround the city and make it all the more beautiful. Conquistadors really know how to pick good places to found cities. So we just walked around the old colonial city all day, visiting museums, old churches, and doing some people-watching in the main square, the Plaza de Bolivar. Lunch cost us $4 and included a full meal of chicken, rice, salad, and beer.

We're back at the hostel now. Aldrich and David are passed out. We're going to go out and check out the Colombian nightlife later. Beer's about 50 cents a bottle and is your basic Latin American light, watered down beer. Still better than Natty though. Adios.

From Colombia: Bogota

Spot the gringos

From Colombia: Bogota

Bogota

From Colombia: Bogota

Plaza de Bolivar

Day 2:
Last night we probably did the most gringo thing we could. We took a taxi to the neighborhood around the local university and had 11pm dinner at Bogota Beer Company. We had cheeseburgers, fries, and beer for dinner. And we watched the Red Sox-Rays game on Latin American ESPN.

Woke up this morning around 9am and went to all the places we didn't go to yesterday. Except all the museums we wanted to go to are all randomly closed on Mondays. All the buildings in the colonial district (La Candaleria) are painted in bright colors... red, blue, yellow, green etc. And there's a lot of graffiti everywhere. Some of them are anti-government and support the revolution (Viva Revolucion!) and I've seen a few FARC ones. Hmmm... Also, apparently on Sundays the roads are closed to traffic so we had to deal with crazy Colombian drivers who regard stop signs (Pare) and red lights as suggestions and not rules. David hasn't been hit by a car. Yet. Our cab driver last night just ignored the red lights and sped through. Another observation: locals are not bilingual. They speak Spanish. Just Spanish. Not even a little bit of English to have a small conversation. I haven't used English with a local yet so I've been relying on my Spanish. But then again, after 7 years of Spanish classes my Spanish is still pretty bad. It's true. If you don't use it, you lose it.

Today, went up Monserrate which is the local mountain overlooking the entire city of Bogota. 9300 ft. There was a church at the top and we went to 1pm Mass. It was all in Spanish of course. Colombia is 90% Roman Catholic. And very devout. The main cathedral in Bogota had Opus Dei posters up. The 80th anniversary of OD was just a few weeks ago. Also we walked around the Presidential House, the Colombian White House I guess. Security was tight with dozens of soldiers and police armed with assault rifles every block. Yeah, a lot like Beirut. But at least they don't hate cameras as much as Lebanese soldiers do. We took as many pictures as we wanted. Anyway, we've had enough of the city so we're heading into the Amazon jungle and over to the Caribbean coast for the rest of the week. There's some small towns/villages a few hours north of Bogota, called Tunja and Villa de Leyva. We're taking a $6 dollar bus at 2am so we'll be there in the morning in time for the sunrise. Hasta luego.

From Colombia: Bogota

Bogota, 9300 ft.

From Colombia: Bogota


From Colombia: Bogota


From Colombia: Bogota

Viva la revolucion!

Dia Tres:
Last night, checked out of the hostel and after a bit of a delay (David) we made it to Zona Rosa for dinner, an upscale neighborhood in Bogota. Most of it reminded me of Georgetown back home in DC. Expensive restaurants, outdoor bars, brick mansions, malls, etc. Except the houses had barbed wire on the fences. And every block had several fully armed Colombian soldiers in full gear. Hmm...After another late night dinner (Latin American style) at 11pm, we just sat around at a bar (Beer Station) enjoying the nightlife atmosphere and Colombian cerveza. Our last bit of civilization before heading into the countryside.

Left Bogota at 1am on a bus to Tunja. Nicest bus I´ve ever been on. Missed our stop because we fell asleep (the bus was that comfortable). The conductor was actually more worried than we were. Went an hour in the wrong direction. Turned around and got into Tunja around 5am. Took the 6am van to Villa De Leyva. Aldrich and David passed out in the back of the van and missed out on some picturesque scenery through the Andean Mountains and Colombian countryside. Small crosses litter the roadside, marking the spot where someone was killed. They´re everywhere just like in Ecuador. Latin American drivers speed around the winding mountainside roads, just a few feet from the cliffside and a few thousand feet drop. Anyway, got into Villa De Leyva at around 715am.

Villa De Leyva is a small town a few hours north of Bogota in the Andes Mountains, which surround the town. Time literally stands still here. There is no modern architecture at all in town. All the colonial-era buildings have been preserved and the town remains mostly unchanged since the early 1600s. The streets are still made of cobble-stones. The church was built in 1608 and hasn´t changed since. The main square is the largest in Colombia. The locals still live mostly simple lives compared to their fellow citizens in the bustling metropolis of Bogota. They´re a lot more friendly too. While Aldrich and David were asleep again after checking into our hotel, that morning I just sat in the main square. Everyone from small children to teenage students to elder couples to stray dogs stopped by to say hello and converse. Didn´t get to far with my Spanish, though.

Strolled through the narrow, cobble-stoned streets for most of the day, just taking in the small colonial town atmosphere. We´ve been doing our best to simulate Latin American culture. We eat small simple breakfasts. Then eat a huge lunch in the afternoon (cheap too, like $5). Then eat dinner around 10 or 11pm. It actually works well. After 2 weeks of doing it in Ecuador, going about 11 or 12 hours without a meal isn´t that bad.

Tonight will probably be a bit quieter than our nights in Bogota. Tomorrow, we´ll try renting out some horses and exploring the countryside outside town ($2 an hour) and then we´ll take the 20 hour bus to Cartagena on the Caribbean coast. Esta de juevos.

From Colombia: Villa De Leyva

Plaza Mayor

From Colombia: Villa De Leyva

Colombia

From Colombia: Villa De Leyva

Andes

From Colombia: Villa De Leyva

VDL

From Colombia: Villa De Leyva


From Colombia: Villa De Leyva


From Colombia: Villa De Leyva

locals

From Colombia: Villa De Leyva

.50 cent beer and the sunset

Dia Cuatro:
Woke up. Left the hotel. Detained by the Colombian police who thought we were carrying drugs. They asked Aldrich if David was about to cry. I don´t know. Maybe we look like stoners? Or the police are that bored with looking after tourists all day, everyday. If we get stopped again, we´ll just tell them we´re seminarians. Bus back to Tunja. Bus from Tunja to Cartagena. $50. 20 hours. Left at 1230pm. Nicest bus I´ve ever been on. And in South America of all places. Yeah, that´s what I thought at first. Before the bus driver cranked the A/C to full blast the whole time and turned the bus into an icebox. With my jacket and keffiyeh both on, my teeth were still tattering. Movies playing included (in Spanish of course) National Treasure 2, Rush Hour 3, and Zohan (Israeli propaganda...wow). 20 hours on a bus doesn´t sound that bad. If it were on an American highway. But this isn´t America. It´s not even the Middle East. The roads are terrible... full of potholes, bumps, winding turns, only two lanes, with random villagers on the side of the road. I literally counted. The bus could not go more than 10 seconds without hitting a bump. Just like Ecuador. Worst ride of my life. Impossible to sleep or read a book. We´re definitely flying back to Bogota.

At least the scenery was nice, even with the motion sickness. From 9000 ft in the Andean Highlands, we descended all the way to sea level on the Caribbean coast. Very picturesque stuff. The road passes through small villages and towns. It kept reminding me of Ecuador and the Philippines. People just lounging in a plastic chair in front of their concrete house, just watching the traffic go by all day.

Dia Cinco:
Got into Cartagena at 8am. The hostel is in the middle of the old colonial town. $3 a night. The room wasn´t ready until 11am so I just passed out in the tv lounge while the Europeans watched Fox News and debated the US elections. They like Obama. Hmm...

Got lunch around the corner at Restaurante Coronado. $4 for a plate of delicious arroz con pollo y papas fritas con cerveza Colombian. Muy excelente. I can describe the weather here on the Caribbean coast in one word: hot. In two words: hot and sticky. I sweat more sitting down eating at a restaurant here than I do running 6 miles at Notre Dame.

But the 20 hour bus ride and the mucho calor weather make this old colonial town on the Caribbean coast the highlight of any trip to Colombia, or maybe even to South America. Founded in the 16th century, Cartagena was the jewel of the global Spanish empire as it was the gateway to South America and the main port in the New World. It was here that the conquistadors shipped all their plundered Indian gold back to Europe. It was here that pirates such as Sir Francis Drake sacked the port for booty. Located on the coast, there are a lot more blacks here than in the Andes mountains. The descendents of African slaves brought here in the colonial period, they´ve created a distinct Creole culture distinctive from the culture of the mountainous regions. Today the town is famous for perfectly preserving its colonial architecture in the old town. We walked around the old town all day, just admiring the simple but inspiring colonial buildings, with bright colors and balconies overlooking the narrow streets. It reminds me of Jerusalem. People can just walk freely in the streets without the noise and disruption that traffic brings. Street vendors sell delicious local snacks (empanadas) and fake Cuban cigars. Streetlife is what makes Cartagena special. Musicans play vallenato on the corners. Horse-drawn carriages and mules walk through the streets, a reminder of the old colonial days.

At night when the sun goes down is when the place really comes alive. Local dancers perform in the square. Outdoor cafes and restaurants in open plazas reminisce of old Europe. But this isn´t Europe. It´s Colombia. The best difference is that you won´t go broke paying for everything here.

We did meet a Jesuit priest here at Iglesia San Pedro Clover, the first to be canonized in the New World. Aldrich had a long conversation with him in Spanish while I tried to follow along. He did mention Opus Dei, at which point I told him in Spanish that I lived in an Opus Dei Center in the US. Apparently he considers Opus Dei an "enemy" of the Jesuits, whatever that means. Maybe something got lost in translation.

Anyway, we had dinner at this outdoor restaurant in one of the open squares. There was a group of Creoles dancing to their tribal-like music. But they were dressed in Spanish clothing. And they speak Spanish too of course. Blending of cultures. We went into this supermarket afterwards and David managed to get separated from us. We lost him. In a sketch part of town. In the middle of a foreign city. In Colombia. We found him later though.

From Colombia: Cartagena, Caribbean Coast

Cartagena

From Colombia: Cartagena, Caribbean Coast


From Colombia: Cartagena, Caribbean Coast


From Colombia: Cartagena, Caribbean Coast


From Colombia: Cartagena, Caribbean Coast


Dia Seis:
Woke up to a loud Colombian man yelling "Newspapers!" every few seconds at 7am. David punched me in the back while sleeping. He snores so loud. Bought airline tickets at a travel agency. $150 one way Cartagena to Bogota. Expensive but definitely better than 20 hours on the bus ride from hell. Took a cab to the Castillo de San Felipe, built in the early 1600s. The strongest and most formidable fortress ever built by the Spanish Empire. Cartagena was that important to Spain and her empire. If they lost Cartagena, they could´ve lost the entire continent or the whole Caribbean. The fortress was the first of its kind, implementing innovating military engineering. Maybe that´s why the fortress was never captured despite numerous attempts to storm it, by pirates, the English, and local Indian tribes. This is also why Cartagena was the last South American city to receive independence from Spain.

Ran into some old guy named Raymundo who offered to take us around Bogota for 30,000 pesos. After some deliberation, we accepted and he drove us the the highest hill in the city. At the top was the Conventa de la Popa, or Convent of the Stern. Apparently the hill looks like the back end of a ship. Founded in 1607 by the Augustine Padres, the hill overlooks the entire city. Buena Vista. After driving around the city a bit more, he dropped us off at the beach. My first time in the Caribbean. The water was warm. It was a bit cloudy but it was sunset so it was muy bueno. Too bad there were more vendors at the beach than actual tourists. For the first 20 minutes we literally had at least 2 to 4 vendors surrounding our tent trying to sell us stuff. I didn´t buy anything. Just a beer for 50 cents. Aldrich got a massage and some fresh crabs. He paid them in American dollars. It´s a wonder what a few dollar bills can do for the locals. They were amazed. Maybe it made them feel American. A bit.

So, our last night in Colombia. Walked around the old city some more and stumbled upon a fiesta in the streets. A live band and salsa music were playing. Women in local costumes danced on stage. Alcohol everywhere. Everywhere. It was drizzling. No one cared. Soldiers and police looked on. Everyone was dancing in the streets. Even the vendors. No one cared. Alcohol everywhere. Friday night in the Caribbean. Everyone just wanted to have a good time. Too bad David got pickpocketed. What a gringo.

Had the usual late night dinner (10pm) at an outdoor restaurant in Plaza de Santo Domingo. Great place for people-watching. We ordered lobster. We were on the Caribbean. Aldrich and I got wine. I got a plate of pasta with some lobster for $14.50. Aldrich and David weren´t too pleased with their dish of lobster. It looked more like art than food. They literally stared at it for a few minutes before finally eating. We sat there past midnight just taking in the aura of the local atmosphere. It felt like a typical outdoor restaurant in an open square in Italy or France. Except mariachi bands played around us. Vendors stopped at our table. I messed with them a bit, as usual. Fun stuff.

Dia Siete:
Our last day in Colombia. Flew back to Bogota this morning at 1039am. Got in before noon. Yeah, that was a lot better than the bus. It only took an hour. The seats were leather. Most of the people on the plane were upper-class. Maybe that´s why the receptionist at the hostel was so surprised when we told her we were flying back. Here we are paying $7 a night and eating $1 fried chicken with potato meals next door but then we shell out $150 for a one hour plane flight. Hmm...

Walked around the same places as before when we got back in the old town. I drank a beer earlier in the main plaza. I love South America. Running out of money, I bought a cowboy hat. The only thing I bought in Colombia this week.

We managed to watch the Notre Dame game here in Bogota too. Just went to the most American place we could find, TGIF's. We didn't want to play the obnoxious Americanos and do the cheers but we were probably the only ones in the place watching the game. The game was on every TV in the restaurant.

Flight at 1220am. Barely made it. Like Ecuador, Colombia slams you with a random departure tax of $25, only payable in cash. Like all my other trips, it's good to be back at school after living as much a spartan lifestyle as I could. From brutal 20 hour bus rides through the jungle to staying in the cheapest hostels we could find to $1 dollar meals, the real value of traveling with a backpacker's mentality is that when you do return to civilization you're not in as much withdrawal as you would if you went 5-star all the way. As usual the first thing I did when I got home was sleep in my bed, the only real mattress I've slept on all week. It's strange. The week went by pretty fast. One week I'm stressed with college. The next week I'm totally free from any burdens and can do whatever I want in Colombia. Then the next week it's back to college. Only one more month until Thanksgiving at least.

I'll miss Colombia. I'm sure I'll return one day, since we did not see as much of the country we could have if we had more time. Like all the countries I visited in the Middle East, the only perception I had coming into Colombia was the caricature painted by the media and State Department. All I ever heard of Colombia was about kidnappings, assassinations, drug lords, political violence, drugs, murder, extortion, crime, war, shootings, etc. The State Dept. says that Americans definitely should not travel on buses and should not travel at night. We did anyway. According to the State Dept. Colombia is the "most dangerous country in the Western Hemisphere." And like all my previous visits to "dangerous" countries, I was able to see the country for what it really was. Not through the eyes of the media or government. And what I saw was a charming South American country and a must-see for travelers. Like Lebanon, the place is heavily militarized but all the perceptions of danger and instablity actually make it even more attractive to travelers because there's less hordes of other tourists to deal with. As long as you know how to travel and use common sense, you're fine. DC and NYC have worse crime rates than Bogota and Cartagena. Don't believe the stereotypes. You're just missing out. Go to Colombia.

Viva Colombia!

Colombia Fun Facts:
The only South American country with coasts on both the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.
Produces 90% of the world's cocaine.
90% Roman Catholic.
#1 Exporter of flowers.
#2 Exporter of coffee.
Named after Christopher Colombus, though he never set foot there.
Most dangerous country in the Western Hemisphere, according to the US State Dept.
President Uribe is the most pro-US leader in Latin America.