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I volunteered at a Palestinian Refugee Camp outside Bethlehem for two weeks to rebuild the home to a Christian Palestinian family whose home was bulldozed illegally a year ago by the Israelis.
| From Jerusalem |
Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem. 3rd Holiest Site in Islam. Where the Prophet Muhammad ascended to Heaven.
| From Jerusalem |
Western Wall in Jerusalem. Holiest Site of Judaism. The only remains of the 2nd Temple.
| From Jerusalem |
Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Holiest site in Christianity. Where Christ was crucified, buried, and resurrected.
I crossed the border into the Palestinian West Bank from Amman in Jordan. After the ordeal in Jordan, things didn't get any easier at the border. Although the West Bank is not part of Israel, the Israelis occupy it and control the borders. Palestinians have no control over their borders. After being held at the border by the Israelis for 7 hours (they didn't like my visa stamps from Iran/Syria/Lebanon or the Hezbollah stuff in my bag), I took a bus to Jerusalem and then another bus to Bethlehem to start my aid work at a refugee camp just outside town. The whole ordeal took 12 hours from Amman to Bethlehem, due to the Israelis tight security measures.
The US State Department warns Americans to avoid all travel in the West Bank. I went anyway.
Entering the West Bank, on my way to Jerusalem it was impossible to miss the huge concrete wall being built to separate Israel and the West Bank. On the Israeli side, the landscape looks like Southern Europe. On the Palestinian side, it looks like your basic third world country under military occupation. 95% of the wall is in Palestine and does not adhere to the 1967 borders. Crippling the Palestinian economy and stealing more land from the Palestinians, the UN and International Court in the Hague have called the wall illegal. Meanwhile, the US just gives more money to Israel to build it. 2.5 billion dollars a year. Racism, destruction, human rights violations, illegal occupation, and apartheid are paid for by American taxpayers.
"Opponents argue that the barrier is an illegal attempt to annex Palestinian land under the guise of security, violates international law, has the intent or effect to pre-empt final status negotiations, and severely restricts Palestinians who live nearby, particularly their ability to travel freely within the West Bank and to access work in Israel. In a 2004 decision, the International Court of Justice declared construction of the wall "contrary to international law."
In 2004, the United Nations passed a number of resolutions and the International Court of Justice, following hearings in which Israel did not participate, issued an advisory opinion calling for the barrier to be removed and the Arab residents to be compensated for any damage done: "The Court finds that the construction by Israel of a wall in the Occupied Palestinian Territory and its associated régime are contrary to international law"
The Red Cross has declared the barrier in violation of the Geneva Convention. On February 18, 2004, The International Committee of the Red Cross stated that the Israeli barrier "causes serious humanitarian and legal problems" and goes "far beyond what is permissible for an occupying power".
Amnesty International, Human Rights Watch and other Human rights groups have protested both the routing of the wall and the means by which the land to build the wall was obtained."
I spent two weeks rebuilding a house for a Christian Palestinian family. Their old house in the village was in the way of the Israeli wall under construction so the Israeli Army just demolished it. The family of 7 had been living in a tent for more than a year.
"Holy Land Trust’s Home Rebuilding Camp has been hard at work rebuilding the home of Walid Ahour, which was destroyed by the Israeli military in 2005. About fifteen international volunteers from Europe and the US are working side by side with Palestinian builders to build a new house in just two weeks. After three days of building, all four walls were already set up. On the fourth day, huge cement trucks made their way to the tiny village to pour concrete for the roof. We had a special lunch of sheep meat to celebrate this milestone—finally Walid’s family will have their own roof over their heads!
The family keeps the volunteers well-fed with delicious homemade lunches, fresh fruits and vegetables from the garden, and endless supplies of coffee and tea. The volunteers have enjoyed practicing their Arabic with the many children, cousins, and friends who come to watch the building. The atmosphere at the site is more like a party than a construction site—the female volunteers were even invited into the house for a spontaneous dance party with some women from the village.
Today the house is finished thanks for all the volunteers who joined us hand in hand to build the house , thanks for everyone who gave his time , his support to this just cause , thanks for the villagers that worked with us , and thanks for all the donations from different parts of the world. Right now Holy Land Trust is getting prepared for the next year’s summer camp , so hopefully soon we will have information about the 2009 Summer Camp and we are all getting very excited to handle the key of another house to a new family."
Meanwhile, across the valley rich, militant Israeli settlers live in their illegal million dollar homes. Palestinians live in crap cinder block houses and the Israelis build these million dollar homes on Palestinian land.
The 1994 Shamgar Commission of Inquirery concluded that Israeli authorities have consistently failed to investigate or prosecute crimes committed by settlers against Palestinians. According to Human Rights Watch, the settler bias of the IDF was confirmed and clarified by Hebron commander Noam Tivon.
"A number of international bodies, including the United Nations Security Council, the International Court of Justice, the European Union, Amnesty International and Human Rights Watch and many legal scholars have characterized the settlements as a violation of international law."
In a 2004 report Amnesty International wrote that "The fence/wall, in its present configuration, violates Israel’s obligations under international humanitarian law."
They continue:
"Since the summer of 2002 the Israeli army has been destroying large areas of Palestinian agricultural land, as well as other properties, to make way for a wall which it is building in the West Bank. In addition to the large areas of particularly fertile Palestinian farmland that have been destroyed, other larger areas have been cut off from the rest of the West Bank by the wall. The wall is not being built between Israel and the Occupied Territories but mostly (close to 90%) inside the West Bank, turning Palestinian towns and villages into isolated enclaves, cutting off communities and families from each other, separating farmers from their land and Palestinians from their places of work, education and health care facilities and other essential services. This in order to facilitate passage between Israel and more than 50 illegal Israeli settlements located in the West Bank.
In October 2003, a United Nations resolution to declare the barrier illegal where it deviates from the green line and should be torn down was vetoed by the US in the United Nations Security Council. In December 2003, it was accepted by the United Nations General Assembly (with four votes against). Consequently, the International Court of Justice was asked for an advisory opinion. It concluded that the barrier violated international law. On 20 July 2004, the UN General Assembly accepted another resolution condemning the barrier with 150 countries voting for the resolution. Only 6 countries voted against: Israel, the US, Australia, Micronesia, the Marshall Islands and Palau. The US and Israel rejected both the verdict and the resolution. All 25 members of the European Union voted in favour of the resolution after it was amended to include calls for Israelis and Palestinians to meet their obligations under the "roadmap" peace plan."
The US State Department warns Americans to avoid any demonstrations in the West Bank. I went anyway. A group of Palestinians were protesting the illegal wall and the IDF's military occupation at a checkpoint outside Bethlehem, one of many in the Occupied West Bank that serves to enforce Israel's apartheid system and limit the Palestinian's freedom of movement.
Then IDF reinforcements showed up. Although the US revokes an American's citizenship if they serve in a foreign military, if an American serves in the Israeli Army they can still retain their citizenship. the Israel Army is the only exception.
Israeli has violated more UN Resolutions (more than 200 in its 60 year history) and Geneva Conventions than any other country in the world. Israel's human rights record is also one of world's worst.
The UN report on the subject noted: "It was not only the Palestinian people whose movement was restricted during Operation Defensive Shield in 2004. In many instances, humanitarian workers were not able to reach people in need to assess conditions and deliver necessary assistance because of the sealing of cities, refugee camps and villages during the operation. There were also cases of Israeli forces not respecting the neutrality of medical and humanitarian workers and attacking ambulances."
Human Rights Watch determined that "Israeli forces committed serious violations of international humanitarian law, some amounting prima facie to war crimes."
Amnesty International reported that war crimes occurred in the Jenin refugee camp and in Nablus, including: unlawful killings; a failure to ensure medical or humanitarian relief; demolition of houses and property occurred (sometime with civilians still inside); water and electricity supplies to civilians were cut; torture or other cruel, inhuman or degrading treatment in arbitrary detention occurred; and Palestinians civilians were used for military operations or as "human shields." According to Amnesty, "the IDF acted as though the main aim was to punish all Palestinians." Collective punishment is outlawed by the Fourth Geneva Convention.
Living in Bethlehem for the two weeks, I had the privilege of being able to visit the Church of the Nativity, the site of Jesus's birthplace and damaged in 2002 by the Israelis, who left many bullet holes on the church.
"From March to April 2002, the Israeli Defense Forces (IDF) carried out “Operation Defensive Shield” in the West Bank. As a part of these large-scale military operations, Bethlehem was advanced upon in a declared effort to root out militants. On April 1, 2002, Israeli tanks surrounded Bethlehem. The next day, Israeli military planes, tanks and troops entered the city, sparking heavy criticism due to the sensitive nature of the site. Approximately 200 Palestinians--including a number of militants--fled the advancing Israeli forces into the Church of the Nativity. During the siege, the Church bell-ringer and nine Palestinians inside the Church were killed and many more wounded by the IDF. A Franciscan monk was also killed in his residence by IDF indirect fire during the siege. By early May, Bethlehem was the last West Bank city where the Israeli forces were still present in the wake of “Operation Defensive Shield.” A large fire was accidentally started during the siege. According to a PBS documentary, an IDF flare was responsible."
a lot of this Christian town has been destroyed and/or bombed out during the second intifada (2000 - present) by the Israelis. not exactly the cozy Middle Eastern village you see on Christmas cards
"On April 1, 2002, after an Israeli air attack, Israeli tanks surrounded Bethlehem. The next day, Israeli tanks and troops entered the city. In early May, Bethlehem was the last West Bank city where Israeli forces were still present in the wake of “Operation Defensive Shield”. They left only after the full attack, siege, and evacuation of the Church of the Nativity, which was the scene of a stand-off between the Israeli army and a group of Palestinians who had taken refuge inside the Church."
I also made my way to Hebron, south of Bethlehem and a major flash point of the Palestinian-Israeli conflict. My travel book said to not go to Hebron. I went anyway.
Israeli snipers occupy the roofs to most buildings in town and militant Israeli settlers have seized land belonging to Palestinians. Also in town is the Cave of the Patriarchs. Split between the Muslims (who call it the Ibrahami Mosque) and Jews, it is the second holiest site for Jews (after the Temple Mount in Jerusalem) and is also venerated by Christians whose traditions maintain that the site is the burial place of four Biblical couples: (1) Adam and Eve; (2) Abraham and Sarah; (3) Isaac and Rebekah; (4) Jacob and Leah. On our way out, an IDF infantry squad arrested a group of Palestinians in the market. Typical.
I also went to Jericho. Oldest city in the world (10,000 years). Also the lowest city in the world (260m below sea level). And the first city conquered by the Israelites when they first entered Canaan (Joshua and his army's 7 circuits and trumpets). In town was the Zacchaeus Tree, the tree Zacchaeus climbed for a better view of Jesus preaching (Luke 19:1-10). On the outskirts of town I ascended the Mount of Temptation. After fasting for 40 days, it was here that Jesus was tempted by Satan. Further outside town were the shores of the Dead Sea, the lowest point on Earth (400m below sea level) and where Sodom and Gomorrah were located. It is impossible to sink in the Dead Sea. With such high levels of salt, you just float on top. you could fall asleep and nap if you wanted to. It's called the Dead Sea because the high levels of salt prevent any kind of marine life.
Jerusalem
The most holiest, most beautiful, most historic, and most disputed city in human history.
Israel may claim it as their capital but the UN and the majority of the international community refuse to recognize it as Israel's capital. The US recognizes it as Israel's capital. Go figure.
The Israelis' illegal wall separates Muslim East Jerusalem from the West Bank. Coming from Bethlehem in the Palestinian West Bank, it takes Palestinians (and me) over an hour to get to Jerusalem as we go through 4 different IDF checkpoints. Israelis have their own private highway and takes about 10 minutes to get to Jerusalem. Hmmm...
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The Golan Heights
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Israel
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I'll be returning to Israel and Palestine this January for three weeks. Hopefully this time I'll be able to get into Gaza. I'm still not sure if I'll write my thesis on the Israeli-Palestinian conflict or on Hezbollah, but it's going to be related to the Israeli-Arab conflict in some way. And it has to be at least 40 pages long.
Free Palestine.

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